Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival : A reason to celebrate Tamil history, culture, and cuisine

Five editions ago, when the conversation surrounding the Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival first began, the approvals were frankly straightforward. “Yacob George [late general manager, The Bangla, a heritage guesthouse in Karaikudi] asked if we could do it, and I said yes,” says one of founders and a member of the family that owns of The Bangala, Meenakshi Meyyappan.

Leela Samson curated the first edition with around 70-80 guests. “We knew that she was the person for the job. She chartered out the whole programme and that is how the first edition went,” says Mrs. Meyyappan. Over the years, the festival which takes people through a nuanced understanding of the Nattukottai Chettiars, their traditions and customs, became bigger. There were tours of century-old mansions with symmetric Burma teak pillars and lit by Belgian chandeliers and Italian marble flooring. These were built, mostly in the 19th Century by the mercantile Chettiar community, who travelled and worked all over South-East Asia, according to an article in The Hindu.

Since then, the annual festival has seen a number of prominent personalities partaking in cultural performances, enlightening conversations, and tucking into sumptuous food from the Chettinad region, all while gaining a deep understanding of this independent microcosm which is the Nagarathar community.

This year, the festival returns between September 18 and 21, tickets for which are now available. During this edition, one can partake in a conversation with politician and author Shashi Tharoor, listen to music performances by the likes of Uthara Unnikrishnan and Usha Venkatraman, watch dance renditions about classical games, and take in discussions about the formidable women of Chettinad, the reality of the mansions in the region, and understand the trade ties between India and South East Asia from the lens of this community. This is besides visits to several houses, and temples in the region spread across 76 villages in the Sivaganga and Pudukkottai district, and a view of how the perfectly congruent Athangudi tiles are made.

Mrs. Meyyappan, now 90, says that the festival is less about Chettiars, and more about a comprehensive understanding of Tamil Nadu as a State. Over the last few years, planning for the festival has begun in December, especially in order to confirm the speakers for the event. “I’ve started a trust where the members and I, sit down to finalise the itinerary,” she says. Over the years, volunteers have helped execute these programmes. However, this time, an event management company is involved, Mrs. Meyyappan adds.

What can one most look forward to at the festival? Mrs. Meyyappan has her list ready. “While I’m interested in many parts of this festival, I’m excited to hear Mr. Tharoor speak. I hope he talks about colonial India. I’m also eager to hear [researcher] Peter Lee and [designer] Ashdeen talk about trade ties between India and South East Asia. Ahalya Mathan’s registry of sari exhibition is also interesting. There’s going to be a talk about the formidable Aachi, and one about houses too, that I would like to hear,” she says.

Food has become a talking point each year at the festival. Think perfectly shaped, soft mutton kola urundais, and a delicious spread of seasonal vegetables on a fresh banana leaf. Mrs. Meyyappan, an expert on food herself, says that there is a perception that Chettinad food is often spicy. “That is never the case. I just bought 500 kilograms of gundu molaga from Ramanathapuram which is then deseeded and used. It is hardly spicy but is flavourful. We want to break the perception that the food from here makes your eyes water, and instead have people enjoy the subtle flavours of this region’s cuisine,” she says.

No better to learn about a region than total immersion.

For details regarding the festival, write to chettinadheritagefestival@gmail.com.