Bengaluru: For years, the aroma of freshly cooked dum biryani has been drawing Bengaluru’s food lovers to Hoskote long before the sun rises. But the city’s famous pre-dawn biryani runs are now hitting a roadblock.Hoskote police have prohibited dum biryani eateries located along the service road near Lanco toll plaza on NH-75 from opening before sunrise, citing road safety concerns. The move follows repeated complaints of traffic congestion, accidents, reckless parking, and fights involving customers who flock to the eateries during the wee hours. This is the second warning issued by police to biryani sellers in recent months.IGP (Central range) S Girish told TOI that five major dum biryani eateries operate along the service road, with more than a dozen tea, coffee, cigarette and snack shops having sprung up around them. With eateries in Bengaluru largely shutting by 1am, youngsters often head to Hoskote for a late-night drive followed by an early-morning biryani.“Day by day, there is an increase in the number of visitors… they come in private vehicles that are parked all over the service road. Many times, vehicles are parked on the highway itself as there is no space on the service road,” Girish said.According to police, such haphazard parking has led to several accidents, arguments and scuffles among motorists and customers. Cops have also flagged instances of customers consuming alcohol in their vehicles while eating biryani. Restaurant staff who questioned or objected to such behaviour were allegedly abused, adding to the law-and-order concerns.The decision to restrict pre-dawn sales was taken at a recent crime review meeting, following which Hoskote police were instructed to enforce the restriction. Police inspector BT Govind will monitor the eateries and initiate legal action if they open before sunrise, Girish said.Origins and CultureTrucker & worker roots: The tradition started a few decades ago when small roadside stalls cooked through the night to serve hearty meals to long-distance truck drivers and early-morning factory shift workers.Sunrise ritual: Eating freshly cooked, hot mutton or chicken biryani before sunrise (traditionally around four on select days like Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays) turned into a popular weekend drive and breakfast ritual for peopleWood-fired cooking: Famous spots cook large quantities of rice and meat over traditional wood-fired flames, giving the food a distinct smoky aroma. The flavour profile is deeply rustic and heavily spiced with local Karnataka-style masala, rich ghee, and tender meat, with the juices blending completely with every grain of ricePaya soup pairing: Many stalls serve a hot, spicy trotter (paya) soup alongside the rice dish, making it a heavy and comforting meal for the early-morning cold
