People make a bigger deal out of wine-and-food pairings than they need to. My simple rule: Find a “Goldilocks wine”—not too heavy, not too light—and stick with it.
I discovered mine years ago when attempting to find the perfect pairing with radicchio—that notoriously challenging, purple leafy vegetable known for its aggressive bitterness, earthiness and astringency. A bottle of young Italian Nebbiolo was up to the task. Its rambunctious tannins, high acid and contrasting notes of cherry, rose petals and hot summer asphalt worked nicely. A wine that pairs with radicchio will pair with pretty much anything. I had found my Goldilocks.
Nebbiolo, a grape grown mainly in southern Piedmont’s Langhe region, combines the finesse and complexity of Pinot Noir with the power and tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon. It carries enough bright acid to pair with grilled meats and creamy pasta sauces, enough earthiness to complement mushrooms and truffles and a savoriness that plays well with roasted veggies and herb-heavy dishes.
Untrendy and rarely touted by influencers or celebrity sommeliers, Langhe Nebbiolo has flown under the radar in part because it is the poor cousin of two more coveted, expensive wines: Barolo and Barbaresco are both also made from the Nebbiolo grape. Those premium bottles are distinguished by their age. Barolo must age for at least 38 months before release, while Barbaresco must age a minimum of 26 months. Most Langhe Nebbiolo wines are aged less than a year, allowing makers to use grapes from younger vineyards or difficult vintages. But that doesn’t mean they are any less appealing.
“Langhe Nebbiolo has more drinkability, more freshness, more fruit and less structure than a Barolo or Barbaresco wine,” said Cristina Oddero, winemaker at the Oddero winery in the stunning hilltop village of La Morra.
The wine is also significantly less expensive than other Nebbiolos. While most top Barolos start at more than $80—and plenty go for over $150—Langhe Nebbiolos from the exact same producers nearly always run for less than $30, and are often under $25. It’s why many people refer to Langhe Nebbiolo as “Baby Barolo.”
Another reason this modestly-priced, easy-to-drink wine hasn’t made it to the big time is the overused 100-point scale that wine critics use. They seem to follow an unwritten rule that Langhe Nebbiolo must always be rated between 87 and 89 points, in order to leave room for their 95-point Barolos. If Langhe Nebbiolo were reviewed in any other context—where price and value mattered—it would never be rated that low.
To put my theory to the test, I’ve been sharing bottles of Langhe Nebbiolo with friends over the past few months. I’ve served it with skirt steak, pork tenderloin, salmon, eggplant-driven pasta alla Norma and risotto made with fresh, ripe Jersey tomatoes. Even the wine collectors among my friends, who swear by hyped Barolos, have had to admit that on a summer evening, as an accompaniment to a delicious meal and lively conversation, the Langhe Nebbiolo hits just right.
4 Langhe Nebbiolo Wines to Seek Out
G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo, $20
Bright and juicy, earthy and floral, with a light ruby color and notes of strawberry and fresh black cherry. Pair with your best Bolognese or ragù.
Damilano ‘Marghe’ Langhe Nebbiolo, $25
Fresh and elegant, with serious tannins, aromas of violets and roses and flavors including pomegranate and big, ripe red berries. Great with eggplant parmigiana.
Sottimano Langhe Nebbiolo, $27
Vibrant and intense, but light on the palate, with complex flavors and aromas of purple flowers, dried herbs, baking spices, raspberry and cranberry. Its gentle tannins bring out the flavor of dishes like mushroom risotto and suggest a more serious wine than the price.
Oddero Langhe Nebbiolo, $29
Subtle and savory, with pretty aromas of rose and fennel, a silky mineral mouth feel and flavors including ripe red cherry, wild strawberry and a hint of fresh herbs. A super complex wine for the price, drink it on its own or with whatever’s on the grill.
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