Over the summer, as Kanyinsola Onalaja was preparing for her namesake womenswear brand’s London Fashion Week debut on the official calendar, a fire ripped through her office and warehouse. Nearly all of the demi-couture label’s previous collections, samples, fabrics, archives and sketchbooks were destroyed. Thankfully, Onalaja and her entire team were safe.
Rather than throwing in the towel, the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2026 finalist revisited an unrealized collection she designed in 2020 entitled “Rising From the Ashes.” Perhaps in a stroke of serendipity, Onalaja reworked her original sketches through the lens of a phoenix, drawing upon her experience with the devastating fire and her courage to start from scratch. The particularly poignant collection, which debuted at LFW on Sunday, explores “a new story of a rebirth, moving from the darkness into a new life,” Onalaja tells Fashionista.
Onalaja Spring 2027
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Separated into three stages — The Burn, The Ash and The Rebirth — Onalaja’s Spring 2027 offering begins with textural burnt oranges mirroring crackling embers and molten lava before settling into a smokey gray color palette representing stillness. Just as the dust settles, flashes of color and light emerge from the darkness, symbolizing a brand reborn. Intentionally broken beads embellish evening gowns, while fringe and feathers abound, fusing the label’s signature ’70s “disco glam” aesthetic with phoenix-inspired motifs.
“We’re in an in-between [moment] where we know who we are as a brand, but it’s like a new beginning and it’s a time for us to explore a slightly different path,” she says.
Photo: Courtesy of Onalaja
Rewinding to Onalaja’s fashion beginnings, the British-Nigerian designer pursued a master’s degree in fashion design at Istituto Marangoni and later worked as an embroidery consultant. While collaborating with other designers, Onalaja got a first-hand look at the industry’s size-inclusivity issue: She noticed most sizing stopped at a U.K. 12 (U.S. 8), with the largest she saw going up to a U.K. 26 (U.S. 22).
“I wanted to create a brand that fused the size inclusivity aspect, but also it was an expression of my heritage and being able to take things that I’ve learned over time, cultures that we have in Nigeria, and fuse it with my love for textures and embroidery,” Onalaja explains.
Photo: Courtesy of Onalaja
Thus, in 2014, Onalaja founded her own luxury label, which she calls a “maximalist dream.” Rooted in craftsmanship and cultural storytelling (the designer hails from the Yoruba and Edo tribes), Onalaja’s vibrant offering explodes with beads, tassels, sequins, feathers, fringe and crystals. The designer’s penchant for intricate embroidery shines throughout the label’s assortment, which already stands apart in the occasionwear space thanks to its extended 2XS to 5XL size range.
“When you walk into a room, people can hear you,” Onalaja said, reflecting on what initially drew her to textural techniques. “It was about creating very statement pieces with the embroidery.”
And statement pieces are exactly what the brand’s customer is searching for. The Onalaja woman is a “global citizen,” filling her social calendar with parties and galas. With the label’s prices ranging from $130 to $6,680, the Onalaja consumer is looking for clothing with a deeper connection. This isn’t an audience merely seeking overpriced elevated basics; Onalaja’s tactile wardrobe, which is built on three-dimensional ornamentation, caters to its community’s appetite for individuality.
Photo: Courtesy of Onalaja
Onalaja already counts multiple celebrities among its fans — Chloe Bailey, Jennifer Hudson and Lizzo, to name a few — and it also recently crafted a custom look for Olivia Dean’s “The Art of Loving Live” tour. At her Atlanta concert, Dean donned the label’s Zellie Slip Maxi Dress, an elongated gown with three-dimensional embroidery inspired by the African tradition of body marking. “A lot of the scars and a lot of the bead placements would be exactly where they would be on a body,” Onalaja notes.
But how do these glittering gowns actually come together? For each collection, Onalaja starts by nailing down her fabrics, embroideries and prints. Then, she “work[s] backwards” to incorporate her beloved ’70s references, often turning to Studio 54 or Diana Ross. “I always focus on texture and fabrication first and then infuse the silhouette after so that the embroidery is the standout and then the silhouette complements it,” Onalaja says. The label collaborates with artisans worldwide, but the designer handles all final finishings.
Photo: Courtesy of Onalaja
As a demi-couture label, Onalaja operates on a made-to-order business model. Each garment is handcrafted with intention, which helps prevent overproduction. As she continues to gradually scale the business, the designer notes that the label is exploring more capsule collections, along with expanding into footwear and accessories. Currently, Onalaja is stocked at major players like Revolve, Saks Fifth Avenue and Cult Mia, in addition to its global retail presence across the U.S., the U.K., the UAE, Nigeria, Ghana and South Africa.
“We cater to women that luxury forgot, especially with the size inclusivity and every woman being a different body type,” Onalaja said. “So our retailers really respect that and they really champion our larger sizes and our very small sizes as well.”
Photo: Courtesy of Onalaja
Looking ahead, retail expansion is on the horizon for Onalaja. With one brick-and-mortar flagship in Lagos under its belt, the designer wants to continue building out the brand’s retailers in different regions, along with hosting more IRL activations with its community. After all, Onalaja’s tactile pieces — dresses dripping with beaded fringe and sparkling with sequins — benefit from in-person discovery.
“We’re at such a crossroads of rebuilding and trying to find out what our new story is,” she says. “Even though we do have some core pillars, for me, it’s an interesting journey because we’re also seeing and learning and seeing where this rebirth will take us.”
