Geku: For the Adi tribe of Arunachal Pradesh’s Siang belt, the river they revere as “Ane Siang”, or Mother Siang, is more than a lifeline. Its changing colours, rising waters and shifting currents have served as a natural calendar for generations, guiding farming practices, daily activities and people’s understanding of the seasons.But the proposed 11,200 MW Siang Upper Multipurpose Project has triggered fears that disruption to the river could destroy not only homes and farmland, but also the roots of Adi civilisation.Flowing down from Tibet, where it is known as Yarlung Tsangpo, Siang has shaped fertile settlements along its banks. For the Adis, one of the six tribes of the Abotani clan, its significance extends beyond sustenance, influencing customary laws, spiritual beliefs and traditional healing practices.As resistance to the proposed dam gathers momentum, villagers in Geku, the epicentre of the anti-dam movement, say the stakes go far beyond displacement.Opek Taku (60) a public figure in Geku, said, “Siang river has long served as the community’s most reliable guide to the changing seasons, helping generations of farmers decide when to cultivate, harvest or venture into the hills.”
Opek Taku with his wife working in their courtyard in Geku town on a bright sunny morning on Wednesday.
“Siang tells us about the change of seasons, and we have learnt to read these signs from our ancestors. When the water turns sky blue, we know the paddy harvesting season has arrived. If thick fog rises above the river in the morning, it usually means the day will be sunny,” Taku said.Villagers said changes in the river’s volume also offered clues about impending rainfall. According to Taku, water levels began to rise a couple of days before heavy rain set in across the region.“These are not just beliefs. They are observations passed down through generations and have helped us plan our cultivation and daily lives. The river tells us when it is safe to go to the fields and when we should stay away from the hills before the rains,” he said.For the community, however, Siang’s importance goes far beyond its role as a natural weather indicator. Its waters are deeply embedded in the spiritual and customary practices of Adi households.Taku said Siang water is traditionally stored in bottles in homes to “ward off evil spirits” and “protect against fire”. He said the practice was rooted in a traditional way of life in which houses were roofed with ‘tokou’ leaves gathered from forests, making them particularly vulnerable to fire.The river is also revered as a sacred entity, with its water believed to possess spiritual powers.“Siang water is as sacred to us as the Ganga is to Hindus,” said Toya Ejing, a youth leader from Geku.Ejing described a customary justice system that, he said, continues to exist in the village and in which Siang is believed to help establish the truth. Under the practice, a suspect is asked to retrieve an egg boiled in water collected from the river. The egg is placed inside a bamboo tube containing hot water in the presence of community members and priests.“The belief is that the guilty person’s hand will be burned while retrieving the egg, while an innocent person will be able to take it out unharmed. This customary practice still exists in our village and reflects the faith our people have in the sacred river,” Ejing said.Ejing said water collected from the river was also poured into a large Tibetan-made brass vessel. The maternal uncle of a sick person would then wash the patient’s body with the water in the hope of curing a prolonged illness.“Our people believe that Siang water has healing powers. We worship the river and consider it sacred. How can we have the courage to disturb something that has protected and guided us for generations?” he said.
