“The reader does not steal, and the thief does not read”: Inside Baghdad’s legendary street where books are left outside at night unguarded for this reason

There’s a unique street in Baghdad where books are left on the road unguarded and unprotected at night. Because they believe in the famous saying, “The reader does not steal, and the thief does not read”. This is like walking through an old market after sunset and finding hundreds of books spread across tables and shelves. No guards, no locked shutters or any security. This is Baghdad’s famous Al-Mutanabbi Street, the Iraqi capital’s historic book market.Let’s explore more this historic book market in BaghdadThe street is associated with a saying that captures the relationship between reading and trust: “The reader does not steal, and the thief does not read.” The phrase has been repeatedly cited in accounts of Al-Mutanabbi Street and even appears in UNESCO material about Iraq’s literary culture.Some booksellers do leave books displayed outdoors, and the tradition has become an enduring part of the street’s folklore and identity. However, individual sellers may also take their valuable stock indoors and locked.Where is this unusual book market?

Al-Mutanabbi Street is located in central Baghdad, Iraq, in the historic Rusafa district near the old quarter and the Tigris River. It runs close to Al-Rashid Street and the Qishla area.Relation with the famous Arabic poets

The street takes its name from Abu al-Tayyib al-Mutanabbi, one of the most celebrated classical Arabic poets. His connection with the place is reflected not only in its name but also in the literary atmosphere that has developed here over generations.For travellers, Al-Mutanabbi Street is much more than a book street. Its narrow lanes are lined with bookstores, outdoor stalls, cafés, antique material, manuscripts, calligraphy and cultural spaces.Why are books left outside?

The idea is wonderful and non-complicated: someone who genuinely reads, values books and knowledge would not steal them. If someone intent on theft would supposedly have little interest in books.Baghdad, the city has historically been one of the great intellectual centres of the Arab and Islamic world. Al-Mutanabbi Street has long been considered the heart of Baghdad’s literary community.A street that survived tragedyOn March 5, 2007, a street was devastated in a car bombing nearly killing 30 people. A number of shops were damaged. Yet booksellers returned and rebuilt their businesses, helping the street reclaim its place as a centre of Baghdad’s cultural life.Historic cafe and nearby attractionsAl-Shahbandar Café here was established in 1917. It is particularly famous and has long beenassociated with Baghdad’s writers, journalists, intellectuals and artists.The street trip can also be combined with nearby attractions such as the Qishla and the Iraqi National Museum.How to reach Al-Mutanabbi Street

Travellers can reach the street by taxi or local transport, with the Qishla and Al-Midan areas. Local travel information recommends getting off nearby and walking because traffic around the historic area can be congested.Is it safe to travel to Baghdad?Now this is an important consideration. The book market may be a fascinating cultural attraction, but Iraq should not be treated as an ordinary tourist destination.India’s Ministry of External Affairs currently lists a specific travel advisory for Indian nationals travelling to Iraq, issued on May 20, 2025. Travellers should therefore check the latest government advisory.