Patricio Campillo Designed a Jacket Made From Bacteria for Spring 2027

For Spring 2027, Campillo began in media res. My fellow literature nerds may recognize the Latin term from high school English class, but rather than referencing a story that drops the reader right into the middle of the plot, designer Patricio Campillo is sartorially reflecting on “something that happens in the becoming.”

“It’s an object that is conceptualized in the middle of a process of something else,” Campillo told Fashionista ahead of his Spring 2027 runway show, titled “In Media Res,” on Sunday. “So this comes from the idea of nostalgia, of trying to freeze certain moments that I find beautiful.”

And what, you may ask, does the designer find beautiful? A sunset melting into the horizon, immortalized in a solar-inspired color palette of golden yellows, burnt oranges and bright reds. A strategically draped garment, or a surprising composition of a single piece that looks like two separate constructions. “The inspiration is to make those moments that look unintentional, intentional,” Campillo said.

Previously, Campillo channeled most of his creativity through sketching, but now, on-model fittings have emerged as his design playground. These in-person meetings offer a chance to see how designs interact with the human body, which can lead to an unexpected fabric shift or layering choice. These shifting proportions are now preserved throughout the label’s latest collection, which includes a skirt mirroring the appearance of a blazer wrapped around the model’s waist, backwards denim tops and double-layered pants. Plus, Campillo is also embracing innovation: The final look — a red textural jacket and trousers — may seem like a full leather set, but it’s actually biologically derived polymer produced by bacteria.

“To me, one of the most important resources to create the brand has been self-reference,” Campillo said. “Through self-reference, you’re able to evolve without necessarily changing the DNA or the identity [of the brand].” The designer arrived to this conclusion, he said, by studying isolated communities in Mexico and how they evolve their traditions over time. By applying this thinking to Campillo’s design process, the brand codes remain constant throughout the seasons, yet the designer explores new techniques and interpretations to continually build upon his past work.

The designer routinely references charro culture, which was on display in his Spring 2027 collection’s fitted jackets, statement belt buckles and fringe-adorned pants. This season, Campillo also dives deeper into its signature horsehair detailing (which is dyed using vegetable pigments) via ruffled collars, elongated skirts, baseball caps and neckties.

Ahead, see all the looks from Campillo’s Spring 2027 collection.