Explore South Tamil Nadu: Your guide to Kodaikanal, Thoothukudi and Karaikudi

Often compared to Manhattan as a ‘city that never sleeps’, Madurai has earned a reputation for its ceaseless hustle. More so, over the last few weeks, with the lead up to the consecration ceremony of the Madurai Meenakshi temple after 17 years, which on Thursday, attracted thousands of people to witness the historic milestone and revel in the fervour of it all.  

There is much to do in this vibrant city; from a staycation at the Geoffrey Bawa-designed Heritage Madurai or a stay at the new The Residency Signature, to shopping for Sungudi saris, taking deep breaths amid the heady fragrance of Madurai malli at the flower markets, and tucking into kola urundais and curry dosas at its many messes. 

Long referred to as the gateway to South Tamil Nadu, Madurai makes a great starting point for exploring what lies beyond—bolstered by smooth highways, scenic routes, and, of course, pit stops at one of the many branches of Hotel Temple City that dot the winding roads for a cup of coffee. 

We give you our pick of quick gateways from the temple city, and hear from locals who are happy to share their favourites, which include scenic spots, special meals and more.

Kodaikanal- 120 kms via Batlagundu

When you reach Batlagundu in Dindigul, on the way to Kodaikanal, the air already begins to feel different. There is a faint nip in the breeze; the highways give way to narrower roads flanked by sprawling fields and coconut groves, and a pit stop to sip on elaneer while taking in the view feels almost essential. 

There is no dearth of beautiful views once you begin your ascent through the ghat roads to Kodaikanal. If a stunning view of the Manjalaaru dam, silver and shimmering in the sun marks the start of things to come, the Silver Cascade falls that gushes into view a couple of hours later signals that the ‘princess of hillstations’ isn’t too far away. 

Kodaikanal can get crowded during peak season, public holidays, long weekends and the summer months, and yet, is one of those rare places that has managed to retain most of its charm. Its residents will tell you that they are sometimes worried about the incessant littering, noisy tourists and how increasingly commercial it all is, and yet, there is so much about this sleepy town and its many misty corners that rejuvenates many weary urban souls. 

The list includes walks around the lake, stopping to giggle at people attempting to paddle, queuing outside Pastry Corner at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. when fresh stocks arrive for their masala bun, egg sandwiches and pear cake, tucking into hot Maggi, and, of course, seeking out Instagram-worthy spots.

Rashmika Johanna, a Kodaikanal resident who opened Kodai In a Box, a farm experience with her husband Ajith Christian around three years ago, says that at her farm, visitors, especially children, have much to do. “There are farm animals, passion fruit creepers, and a variety of local vegetables grown here. Children can pick veggies and fruits and feed our animals, brew a cup of spearmint tea with freshly plucked leaves and more,” she says. Experiencing Nature is such an important part of visiting the hill station that Rashmika says the farm too, has as little intervention as possible. “We haven’t changed much here or built large structures, our old pear trees are undisturbed, and there is a sense of calm here,” she adds. 

For visitors making a beeline to Kodaikanal, Rashmika suggests a visit to the pine forest for those Instagrammable photos. For the more adventure-loving souls, she highlights a trek down to see Dolphin’s Nose at Vattakanal, a post-trek meal at Altaf’s Cafe, and a pitstop at the scenic Pambar falls enroute. 

“The majestic tree and Guna caves are now very popular after Manjummel Boys, but did you know, there is a 500-year-old jamun tree at Shola Road,” Rashmika says. “The Shenbaganur Museum of Natural History is a common field trip spot for schools here, and is definitely worth a visit. A drive to Poombarai, with scenic views of the town and a visit to the Mannavanur lake are must-dos as well,” she adds. When hunger strikes, slices of oven fresh pizza from George’s Gourmet Kitchen, now at a new location with lovely views, is on her list as well. 

Thoothukudi – 150 kms 

A two-and-a-half-hour car ride seems to fly by when you are busy chronicling the changing landscape on a drive from Madurai to Thoothukudi. Rolling farmlands in shades of green, changing with the seasons, make for good company as you drive out of Madurai, and soon enough, as you approach Ettayapuram, massive, white wind turbines dot the landscape. 

Soon enough, there are signs that the sea isn’t very far off. Coastal flatlands loom into view, and there are large stretches of salt pans in a brilliant white. The heat might be beating down as it does for most of the year in South Tamil Nadu, but the salt crystals twinkling in the sun, under clear blue skies truly feel like a sight to behold. 

Thoothukudi is where one heads for stunning views of the sea, whether at quiet beaches with powdery-white sand, or at celebrated temples and churches. The Subramanya Swamy temple at Thiruchendur, perched right by the sea, has pilgrims thronging through the year, as does the Our Lady of Snows Basilica, with its much anticipated annual festival in August. For more dramatic views of the Bay of Bengal, head to the Holy Cross Church on a cliff, in the scenic coastal town of Manapad which is dotted with pristine beaches. 

To go beyond the views and get close and personal with the sea, Aqua Outback, a resort and water sports academy, has a bevy of options; kayaking, snorkelling, kite surfing and more at the azure waters of the Gulf Of Mannar. Adventures are not mandatory, there is also plenty of nothing to do by the sea, with a book, a cold beverage in hand, some fresh seafood and a cheese platter for company.  

“Thoothukudi is a small, closely-knit community where everyone takes care of each other. Food is central to all experiences; weddings in particular have a ridiculous amount of food and I remember this from my own wedding here as well. It was the first time I experienced such hospitality,” says Anaina K Motha, events and marketing head, Aqua Outback. Her husband Arjun K Motha, a pro kiteboarder, founded Aqua Outback in 2015 and Anaina moved to Thoothukudi six years ago. 

Anaina says a typical date night for her would be at Aandavar, for their famed parottas, or Aardvark Cafe, for a more upscale, laid-back evening. “There is Prema Mess of course, and so many other places that are either gems that have been around for decades, or a smattering of newer establishments driven by the need to have a variety of cuisines,” she explains. 

While Dhanalakshmi Bakery and Ganesh Bakery’s airy Thoothukudi macaroons, a crunchy sweet treat made of egg whites, crushed cashews and a generous helping of sugar are a staple souvenir to take back from the port city, Anaina also recommends coconut biscuits, kuchhi mittai, and mutton puffs. As one of the country’s largest salt-producing hubs, Thoothukudi is also a good place to pick up salt from local manufacturers, she adds. 

Karaikudi- 90 kms

There is no better time to explore Chettinad than when you are ready for a crash course in art, history, culture and, of course, food; one that you will inevitably wish had lasted a little longer. 

A cursory glance at any travel recommendation online will wax eloquent about the region’s beautiful mansions and intricate carvings on Burma teakwood, its Athangudi tiles and its food (which there are many imperfect variations of outside the region). There is however, much more to Chettinad, which is currently hosting the annual Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival, which takes people through a nuanced understanding of the Nattukottai Chettiars, their traditions and customs. 

For Adithi Ganeshan, gemologist and founder of jewellery brand Thamalli, a great place to begin exploring the history of the region is Pettagam, a private museum of Chettinad jewellery, where she also serves as creative director. 

“The museum talks about the history of the Nagarathar community, their migration and how they settled in what we see today as Chettinad. The space also traces how our unique style of jewellery is integral to Nagarathar culture,” she says. The soon-to-open Museum of Chettinad, housed in Visalakshi Ramaswamy’s 125-year-old family home in Kanadukathan, will also offer, she says, a nuanced insight into the region’s history, traditions and architecture, as well as revived crafts such as kottan, or palm-leaf basket weaving, and Chettinad (kandangi) saris. 

“The Athangudi palace, an architectural marvel, is one of the most beautiful Chettinad houses I have seen and a must-visit,” Adithi says. Once you are done admiring the many different Athangudi tile patterns, she recommends visiting a factory where the tiles are made, and trying your hand at making them as well. 

“No visit to Chettinad is complete without a culinary experience, and I recommend a lunch at The Bangla,” she says. A full meal at The Bangla, complete with its kootu, kozhambu, mutton curry and crowning glory, ghee ice cream for dessert, is an essential myth buster; Chettinad cooking is nuanced, flavourful and not simply spicy, as many believe it to be. 

For a spiritual experience, Adithi suggests heading to the famous Pillaiyarpatti temple, which has its deity in the form of a natural, monolithic idol.