For four decades, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have built a fashion language around craftsmanship, maximalism and an unapologetic love for Indian textiles and embroidery. As the designer duo marks 40 years, their creative world is expanding beyond couture with the launch of their Iconic Jewels collection, while Dimple Kapadia features in their latest campaign.
In an exclusive conversation with HT Shop Now, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla talk about dressing boldly without being overwhelmed by an outfit, the wardrobe essentials they believe in, why fashion rules are meant to be ignored and how to style statement jewellery with heavily embroidered Indianwear.
Q. You want people to experiment with fashion, but how can someone wear a bold outfit without letting it overwhelm them?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: Our approach to dressing is philosophical. The wearer does not need an occasion to dress in a certain way. We believe in exploration and there is no standard rule because every individual is unique.
Q. If you had to build the ultimate wardrobe with just a few pieces, what would make the cut?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: A shirt, a maxmail robe, a pair of well-tailored trousers and two pieces that will be determined by total spontaneity.
Q. What is one fashion rule you wish people would stop following?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: Stop following fashion rules. Dress in ways that bring you joy.
Q. You have now ventured into jewellery with Iconic Jewels. What made this the right moment to enter the category?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: Iconic Jewels has been a long time in the making, with production taking place over the past year. We have always wanted to create jewellery, and after 40 years it felt like the right time.
Creativity spills into every realm. We have brought the same principles that define our couture to jewellery: uncompromising craftsmanship, total handwork and the finest materials.
Some of the ranges draw inspiration from our hand-embroidery. Roshnai, for instance, is inspired by Chikankari motifs, while Aabad celebrates Patola embroidery. The aesthetic manifests differently in jewellery, but the essence remains the same.
Q. Statement jewellery can easily compete with an elaborate outfit. How do you find the right balance?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: It is about balance and mood. If the outfit is maximal, the jewellery can complement it. But it is also absolutely fine to be maximal in both clothing and jewellery.
Q. What is your approach to styling a heavily embroidered Indian outfit for an occasion?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: Start with one focal point and let it determine the rest. Decide what the star of the look is and allow the other choices to emerge from it. Keep experimenting around that focal point.
Q. With trends changing so quickly, what should people actually invest in?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: Invest in pieces crafted with integrity and finesse, made to become heirlooms. Beautiful AJSK chikankari is worthy of that investment.
We are not tracking trends. We are in our own fantasy world.
Q. More men are experimenting with jewellery, colour and traditionally feminine details. Where should someone begin?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: Start with whatever repeatedly attracts your attention. If you find yourself drawn to a particular garment or accessory, that is an invitation to experiment.
Q. Dimple Kapadia has been closely associated with your creative world. What makes her such a compelling muse for you?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: We are fortunate to call her our muse and our friend. She is a woman of infinite style and substance.
She makes a garment her own instead of feeling that it is too much. Her effortlessness comes from accepting and celebrating herself at every age and every phase.
Our recent campaign felt like a celebration of friendship and glamour.
Q. Finally, if you could give someone just one piece of fashion advice, what would it be?
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla: You only live once, so dress like it.
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