I set out from Visakhapatnam with the misplaced confidence of someone who has only admired adventure sports from a comfortable distance. The road to Rayagada, in southern Odisha, carries no sense of urgency. It moves through farm fields, past Bobbili and Parvathipuram, holding on to a pace that feels measured and familiar. By the time we reach Chollapadam, the last village of Andhra Pradesh bordering Odisha, the landscape begins to thin out. There is less movement, more sky and a quiet shift that marks the crossing into Odisha.
From Chollapadam, a three-kilometre drive leads us into narrower roads that wind through mango, banana and palm trees. There are small, uneven stretches that nudge the vehicle into caution; and fields of paddy and cotton that stretch out on either side. It is along this stretch that Anija, a quaint village in Rayagada, appears, almost unexpectedly.
People enjoying kayaking at river Nagavali near Anija at Rayagada in Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak
More than two decades ago, this part of Rayagada was defined by mango and cashew plantations and wide swathes of paddy. It was during this time that Visakhapatnam-based construction and hospitality veteran Seshagiri Mantri scoured the State in search of untouched places where he could pursue river sports like kayaking and possibly shape a golf course.
“I used to visit the place often and was taken by its terrain,” he tells me later. “There were fields on either side of the Nagavali River. It felt open and unclaimed. I thought we should build something here.”
That thought turned into a decision in 2012, when he acquired land on the Andhra side of the border and later extended it to the Odisha bank of the river. Today, he is the managing director of Anija Golf Resort, stretched across 30 acres with 37 villas that has grown into its surroundings rather than replacing them. Nearly 500 trees, including mango, guava, cashew and coconut, provide a dense canopy here.
The Nagavali River runs alongside, steady and unassuming. In summer, the water recedes to a level that makes it accessible without losing its presence. This is where I am introduced to tandem kayaking, a summer activity introduced by Anija that appears simple until you attempt it.
I am paired with someone far more assured than I am. The kayak rests lightly on the water and the instructions are clear: Hold the paddle firmly. Follow the rhythm. Stay aligned. It sounds manageable. It is not.
My strokes arrive either ahead of time or well after they are needed! The kayak responds with mild resistance, turning slightly off course. My partner attempts to correct me with gentle reminders. The river, however, remains unchanged.
A visitor enjoying an ATV ride on the banks of river Nagavali at Anija in Rayagada, Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak
Around us, the activity on the banks continues without interruption. A volleyball game gathers pace, voices rising and falling with each point. A group takes turns on the ATV, tracing loops across the open ground. Archery targets stand at a distance. It draws a group of people, clearly preferring a game of focus over movement.
Closer to the river water, there are two coracles that drift without urgency, a banana boat that carries bursts of laughter and floating tubes that host those who have opted for stillness over effort. The river accommodates all of it without losing its composure.
A group of people trekking across the nature trail through Vempallavalasa village near Anija in Rayagada, Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak
Later in the afternoon, I leave the water for a four-kilometre guided Nature trail through Vempallavalasa village. The path moves through fields that hold varying shades of green, shifting with the light. Cashew plantations line parts of the route, their branches extending low and wide.
This trail also leads towards the Muggu Gruham cave, a formation shaped over time, set against the quiet of the surrounding plantations. The walk towards its foothills is steady and unhurried which leads to a short sudden elevation of 200 metres. Early mornings here, I am told, carry a distinct soundscape, with birds filling the air in a way that alters the experience of the walk.
A group of people trekking across the nature trail through Vempallavalasa village near Anija in Rayagada, Odisha.
| Photo Credit:
KR Deepak
At the elevation, we reach a hill view that opens up the region. From here, the Kuneru railway station appears at a distance. The Nagavali traces its path through the land, more visible from this height and in the backdrop is the cloud-laced Eastern Ghats.
On our return, the guides pause under a tree. Tea is served without ceremony, accompanied by simple refreshments. The break feels earned.
There are other excursions that extend beyond Anija. About 12 kilometres away, the Jimidipeta waterfall offers a quieter setting. At 207 metres above mean sea level, it remains understated in summer but gathers force during the monsoon, when the water flow strengthens and the surrounding hills draw in low clouds.
Further out, at a distance of 37 kilometres, the Durgapadu waterfalls present a larger scale. With a height of nearly 200 feet and a two-level structure, they are best experienced during the monsoon months, when the volume of water transforms the site into a more striking presence.
Back at the resort, the evening settles without announcement. The temperature remains around 32 degrees Celsius, but the steady breeze softens it.
The team at Anija works closely with nearby villages to source local produce. “We have an organic patch where greens and vegetables are grown,” says Seshagiri. Local residents are being brought in to build employment opportunities. The focus remains on sustainability. The idea is to return to a simpler rhythm, where people can step away from busy routines and constant screen time.
Anija Gold Resort is located at a distance of 175 kilometres from Visakhapatnam. The nearest railway station is Kuneru.
Published – April 02, 2026 05:16 pm IST
