Delhi: exploring the many versions of a city that co-exist

Behind the modern chaos of traffic and concrete lies a city of infinite layers — a “hidden India” that Sara Abdullah Pilot and Aishwarya Jha are determined to awaken. The co-founders of the year-old Indophile – a multidisciplinary cultural venture, are transforming the lawns of Travancore Palace into Kahaani: Dilli Ki, a two-day immersive festival which is a tribute to the heart, history and heritage of Delhi. Supported by the Ministry of Culture, the debut edition of this festival is rooted in the belief that Delhi is not one city but many, and invites visitors to stroll through its eras to savour its flavours, listen to its music, and encounter the stories that have shaped its enduring character. 

“Delhi has an endless well of stories and one of the things we want to do through our panel discussions, arts and crafts, music performances and food is to try and tell as many of these stories as we can,” says Sara. The duo did not want this to be just another festival in the capital’s entertainment calendar but for it to spark meaningful conversations. “We want people to come and have a good time but also, for them to get an opportunity to delve a deeper into real conversations about heritage and culture,” she adds. 

The curation, therefore, had to be with the right blend of established names along with those who may not have a similar cachet that the headliners would. The music section, for instance, features artistes such as contemporary Sufi singer Deveshi Sahgal, award-winning singer-composer Sonam Kalra, popular band Indian Ocean, as well as artistes from the Dilli gharana. There is also kathak by Gauri Diwakar, dastangoi by Ashhar Haque, and engaging street theatre performances, honouring Delhi’s layered artistic heritage.

Peeling back the layers of Delhi’s edible history, author and food historian Anoothi Vishal is crafting a food experience that celebrates the city’s lesser-known gastronomic treasures. “Most people think that Delhi food is only about post-Partition Punjabi cuisine or foods available in streets and restaurants. The curation here breaks that myth and talks about the communities of Shahjahanabad (colloquially known as Old Delhi), as well as some other communities which are not from Shahjahanabad.,” she says.

Produced by EVH International, the experience will encompass early Mughlai food without the inclusion of chillies and tomatoes, heirloom dishes from the Kayastha community such as potli ki sabzi and kachche keeme ke kofte, Baniya foods such as mangochi (a type of kadhi made with moong dal), foods from the Jat villages of Delhi, such as the malai halwa in which ghee is replaced by malai, Punjabi dishes that go beyond butter chicken and a variety of chaats, among others. Five home chefs belonging to the respective communities will ensure these dishes are just as authentic as they are when they prepare them in their home kitchens. Anoothi’s dual practice as a writer and curator is anchored in the belief that food preserves cultural memory. By challenging the city’s often restrictive culinary tropes, she seeks to document the “mini Delhis” that represent the city’s evolving contemporary identity.

Award-winning restaurant and art project Edible Archives will put together a sensory-led exploration of Delhi’s spice traditions, featuring whole spices hand-picked from Khari Baoli by Chef Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar. The festival will also be a hotspot for stimulating conversations with eminent personalities such as William Dalrymple, Swapna Liddle, Shalini Passi, Nona Uppal, Madhulika Liddle, Aishwarya Tipnis, Anica Mann and Ratish Nanda, among others. Drop in at the exhibition by Mahatta Photo Studio for rare archival images of Delhi and take home retro-style portraits as souvenirs at the vintage photo booth.

After Delhi, Sara and Aishwarya are keen on taking the festival to other parts of the country. “There is a cultural revival going on in our country. People want to connect to their roots. Our goal is to be able to facilitate that in an engaging and accessible manner,” shares Aishwarya.

Kahaani: Dilli Ki is at Travancore Palace on February 14 and 15 from 11am-8pm. Tickets starting from ₹899 available on BookMyShow.